The Big Easy’s Inventive New Eateries
BY JULIA REED
Just eight months after Herbsaint reopened (it was one of the first “white tablecloth” restaurants to do so following the storm), Donald Link and partner Stephen Stryjewski opened Cochon, a hypernuanced but unfussy (and delicious) homage to the Cajun food Link grew up with. Three years later they followed with Cochon Butcher, a more casual affair devoted to small plates and sandwiches (but no po’ boys), where diners might leave with a marinated chicken or house-made salumi from the butcher’s case. Next up was Pêche Seafood Grill, which reinvented the New Orleans oyster bar to glorious effect and won the 2014 Beard for best new restaurant. (In the same year, Pêche chef Ryan Prewitt, formerly of Herbsaint, also won the award for best chef in the South).