The National 38 2016
BY BILL ADDISON

“Chef Donald Link’s first restaurant — not as splashy as recent partnerships like Cajun-Southern sensation Cochon, sandwich shop extraordinaire Cochon Butcher, and grilled seafood palace Peche — still exudes a bewitching, timeless gentility. Like New Orleans itself, the kitchen borrows from a grab bag of cultures and somehow arrives at an elegant crossroad. Italian influences show especially well — the riff on spaghetti carbonara with a poached egg is one of the city’s modern classics — but visitors and residents alike who sip one spoonful of the powerful, chocolate-brown gumbo will know themselves to be nowhere else but Louisiana.”